Reviews

Top 5 BBQ

Four years ago, Davetta Greene bought a used barbecue pit for $40. It was a gift for her husband, Kendon. After fried pork chops caused two separate fires in their home kitchen, she thought it was time he moved his cooking outside. He didn’t take to the pitmaster role immediately. “It was horrible,” he told me as Davetta nodded with a grin. “It just looked wrong,” she added. Undaunted, Kendon traded up to a larger smoker. When…

Pat Gee’s Barbecue

The hand-painted wooden sign reads “Pat’s Barbecue,” but everybody calls it Pat Gee’s after its late founder, Mack Henry “Pat” Gee, who opened this barbecue shack east of Tyler, deep in the piney woods, sometime around 1963. Pat, his wife Vida, and their seven children lived just up the hill from the small, wooden building. “We all worked here at one point,” Billy Walker told me during a recent trip. He works here now with…

One90 Smoked Meats

This is not a barbecue joint. As the name suggests, they specialize in smoked meats, which are mostly piled in a sandwich. If you come to One90 Smoked Meats looking for a combo plate with slaw and beans on a plastic tray, prepare to be disappointed. But if you’re happy with a fantastic smoked meat sandwich that features lots of bold flavors, then you’re going to want to eat here as often as I do. Just a couple…

Intrinsic Smokehouse & Brewery

Cary Hodson wanted to bring a brewery to historic downtown Garland. City regulations said he needed food to go along with his craft beers, so he enlisted the aptly named Tex Morgan to bring the barbecue. They made room for an Oyler smoker, and now Intrinsic Smokehouse & Brewery has great brisket to go along with all that great beer, or vice-versa. It’s a big room. Beer tanks are on display up front followed by…

Zeke’s BBQ

Sometimes all it takes to seduce me into a high-mileage gamble on a barbecue joint are a few meat photos on Facebook. Unless you’re taking the circuitous route to nearby Wichita Falls, Windthorst, Texas isn’t really on the way to anywhere. But a mere five-hour round trip from home isn’t a bad investment for a true hidden gem, and I was betting on Zeke’s BBQ. Chris Pettyjohn’s path to becoming a barbecue joint owner was also roundabout. He is a…

The Salt Lick: An Appreciation

The image above is probably the most well-known in Texas barbecue. A photo of, or with, the iconic pit at the Salt Lick is on par with braking for our state’s bluebonnets along the highway. This particular photo fetched me nearly 3,000 likes on Instagram. My best image of a Franklin Barbecue brisket? 1,163 likes. The open pit’s flaming live oak and the tendrils of sausage hanging above mesmerizes, so much so that Salt Lick literally…

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