TMBBQ Buzz

Comments from our joint finder app.
Had the frito pie with sausage was fntastic and got a hot link sandwich also good folks and food here
douglas78@aol.com @ Lone Star Bar-B-Que, 2016-06-26 18:00:07
Made the drive from Bryan today. great drive and better food. The moist brisket was great the bark amazing. Pork ribs were our favorite. Sausage was good. We also thought the pork shoulder was amazing.
Mjleonar @ Snow?s BBQ, 2016-06-25 19:44:39
Sampled all their fantastic food at Huston BBQ fest. Amazing artists at both BBQ and chocolate. Get the carrot soufflés for desert
Randy Deputy @ Tejas Chocolate Craftory, 2016-06-21 13:02:50
@Micklethwait Craft Meats in Austin- I had a great meal hear with my family on Father's Day. As usual the brisket was exceptional. Some fellow devotees encouraged us to try the frito pie which was fantastic. Also tried the Barbacoa - delicious. Micklethwait Craft Meats provides the perfect combination of mouth watering meats and delicious sides - don't miss the pickles or jalapeño cheddar grits
bbqmeatlover @ , 2016-06-20 21:08:35
Too early for everything except sausage - but is was damn good sausage
wheresjim @ Smitty’s Market, 2016-06-19 14:50:13
Finally made it here. It lives up to the hype though I agree with past reviews that the brisket was dry. But it still had lots of flavor. The sausage was delicious, I wish I'd got more but I didn't want to stand in line again. The ribs were the star of the show. So much flavor and slid of the bone.
pk @ City Market, 2016-06-17 19:43:38
The worst BBQ I have ever had. The brisket was obviously left over and tough. They tried to hide this by cutting it really thin. There is no smoke profile or taste at all. The chop beef was disgusting. The ribs were cooked well and had a decent bark on them but again no taste or smoke profile. The sausage was the most decent and edible thing on my $27 plate. I really like to look on the inside of the restaurant, but have come to realize that this is basically a place for people can take their kids and drink some beer while they play on the playground.
TexasHopHead @ Blanco BBQ, 2016-06-17 13:07:21
Three boats sliced ,ham and sausage we shared all perfect love my Angelo's
douglas78@aol.com @ Angelo’s Bar-B-Que, 2016-06-16 18:53:09
More Buzz →

Review

Hickory House BBQ 03

June 10, 2014

Johnny Doyle cooks on a gas-rotisserie, but he’d do it differently if he could. He takes pride in the barbecue he puts out in his nearly forty year old Denison restaurant, so when he had pit fire that destroyed his Oylers, he wanted to replace them. “[J&R Manufacturing] told me it would be a couple months before I could get an Oyler built, so I bought two Southern Prides instead.” Now he just can’t get the bark to set on his ribs like he’d like to. I can’t be sure if it’s the cook or the cooker, but he’s right.

Hickory House BBQ 01

The ribs were tender and came away nicely from the bone. They even had a good smokiness, but the rub sat atop the meat like wet sawdust. The meat and rub had not become one, and there was no bark to speak of. That textural variation of crisp crust and moist meat is what makes a dry-rubbed rib so pleasing, but this rib was crying for some sauce. Luckily, they make a couple good ones here. The tomato-based version wasn’t too sweet with just a touch of vinegar, and livened up the ribs nicely.

Doyle’s other sauce is a regional specialty. He makes a brown gravy sauce from the flour-thickened pit drippings. It’s thick and heavily seasoned, and makes for great Texas toast dipping.

Brown Gravy 13

Hickory House brown gravy sauce

Johnny and his wife Shawn make all the sides too. In fact, there isn’t much here that’s not from scratch. If you’re used to beans from the can, a trip through Sherman, Denison, Bells, and Bonham will be a pinto bean revelation. They know how to cook them in these parts. There are few ingredients and they aren’t fortified with leftover chunks of barbecue. They’re just beans that are well cooked in a pot for long hours and seasoned with just enough salt. A side of potato salad was anything but store-bought. Chunks of egg, nearly-mashed potatoes, and good kick of yellow mustard made for a bright counterpoint to the beans. Side are also self-serve along the cafeteria line, so you can get a few spoonfuls if you like.

Hickory House BBQ 02

Then there’s the brisket. In these parts you normally need to beg for any crust to be left on the meat. The fatty end is usually chopped for sandwiches, and the sauce on the side is a foreign concept. But Johnny Doyle does it differently. A nice line of rendered fat hid beneath a crunchy bark created from hours in the pit, and few on the steam table. Brisket in the mid-afternoon is usually dried out when held in this manner, but the Hickory House beef was juicy and tender. There was plenty of smoke, pepper, and salt to flavor it too.

Maybe the ribs were better back before the pit fire, but it looks like Doyle has found his sweet spot with the brisket. He recognized me just before I left, and asked me for some tips on the ribs. I’m not sure if it was for flattery or if he was really looking to improve, but it’d be worth returning to find out as long as he keeps serving brisket like that.

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