TMBBQ Buzz

Comments from our joint finder app.
Got 1/4lb moist and Cole slaw. Brisket melted in mouth like always but this time didn't have as much of smoke ring. I needed to do BBQ sauce. If not, had slight roast beef taste. Cole slaw crunchy and sweet.
Terry r @ Milt’s Pit BBQ, 2016-09-29 19:37:16
I ate lunch here a while ago and was shocked at all the other food they served besides BBQ. I had the steak fingers so I can't rate the BBQ. It should just be called Johnnys restaurant because when I was there I saw no one eating BBQ.
Woodwill Smokers @ Johnnys BBQ, 2016-09-29 03:37:34
This is probably the most tender brisket I have ever ate. I wish it had a little more smoke but I appreciate the fact that it tasted like unaltered brisket. The jalapeño cheese sausage was great and so was the slaw. Next time I will try the large beef rib.
Woodwill Smokers @ Terry Black’s Barbecue, 2016-09-27 23:04:49
Great place. The brisket was smoke well with the fat perfectly rendered out. It may have been a bit overdone, tending to fall apart when picked up. But taste wise it was great. Only small nitpick was that the crust was not as peppery as I like, but that's just personal preference. The ribs had a beautiful bark on them and were tender, just slightly dry. Tried the jalapeño sausage and my only comment is, make it hotter. But again that's just my personal preference. Some small nitpicks but overall a great restaurant. Definitely earned a four star rating. I may have just found my new favorite lunch spot!
jgarcia @ Julian’s BBQ, 2016-09-27 17:54:38
Great place. The brisket was smoke well with the fat perfectly rendered out. It may have been a bit overdone, tending to fall apart when picked up. But taste wise it was great. Only small nitpick was that the crust was not as peppery as I like, but that's just personal preference. The ribs had a beautiful bark on them and were tender, just slightly dry. Tried the jalapeño sausage and my only comment is, make it hotter. But again that's just my personal preference. Some small nitpicks but overall a great restaurant. Definitely earned a four star rating. I may have just found my new favorite lunch spot!
jgarcia @ Julian’s BBQ, 2016-09-27 17:54:38
Haven't been here in while....its really become quite an event center! I'd have to give the atmosphere 5 stars. Now on to the BBQ...had the brisket, ribs, turkey & sausage. Have to give the top dibs to the turkey. Great smoke flavor without being overwhelming. Moist. Delicious. Brisket pretty good but not quite flavorful enough. Moist. Ribs were quite good as well! Sausage had a good flavor but a little too fatty for me. Beans were very good. Potato salad was good too. Cole slaw is vinegar based. Not my fav. Tried both blackberry and peach cobbler with ice cream. Delicious, but I would have liked it a little sweeter. Rest of my family thought they were great. All in all, 3.5 stars.
Kenny G @ The Salt Lick Bar-B-Que, 2016-09-24 22:48:49
Moist brisket, but not fatty. Great favor, but not too intense. Adequate sauce, although no sauce needed on brisket. Sauce did not cover up flavor of meat when used. Good sides, but the brisket stole the show. Interesting peach cobbler, and tasted better than it looked (was packaged). Would highly recommend.
billyjeffers1845 @ The Witt Pit BBQ, 2016-09-24 19:14:25
Salami and Fritos perfection !
douglas78@aol.com @ Angelo’s Bar-B-Que, 2016-09-24 18:47:13
More Buzz →

Review

Hickory House BBQ 03

June 10, 2014

Johnny Doyle cooks on a gas-rotisserie, but he’d do it differently if he could. He takes pride in the barbecue he puts out in his nearly forty year old Denison restaurant, so when he had pit fire that destroyed his Oylers, he wanted to replace them. “[J&R Manufacturing] told me it would be a couple months before I could get an Oyler built, so I bought two Southern Prides instead.” Now he just can’t get the bark to set on his ribs like he’d like to. I can’t be sure if it’s the cook or the cooker, but he’s right.

Hickory House BBQ 01

The ribs were tender and came away nicely from the bone. They even had a good smokiness, but the rub sat atop the meat like wet sawdust. The meat and rub had not become one, and there was no bark to speak of. That textural variation of crisp crust and moist meat is what makes a dry-rubbed rib so pleasing, but this rib was crying for some sauce. Luckily, they make a couple good ones here. The tomato-based version wasn’t too sweet with just a touch of vinegar, and livened up the ribs nicely.

Doyle’s other sauce is a regional specialty. He makes a brown gravy sauce from the flour-thickened pit drippings. It’s thick and heavily seasoned, and makes for great Texas toast dipping.

Brown Gravy 13

Hickory House brown gravy sauce

Johnny and his wife Shawn make all the sides too. In fact, there isn’t much here that’s not from scratch. If you’re used to beans from the can, a trip through Sherman, Denison, Bells, and Bonham will be a pinto bean revelation. They know how to cook them in these parts. There are few ingredients and they aren’t fortified with leftover chunks of barbecue. They’re just beans that are well cooked in a pot for long hours and seasoned with just enough salt. A side of potato salad was anything but store-bought. Chunks of egg, nearly-mashed potatoes, and good kick of yellow mustard made for a bright counterpoint to the beans. Side are also self-serve along the cafeteria line, so you can get a few spoonfuls if you like.

Hickory House BBQ 02

Then there’s the brisket. In these parts you normally need to beg for any crust to be left on the meat. The fatty end is usually chopped for sandwiches, and the sauce on the side is a foreign concept. But Johnny Doyle does it differently. A nice line of rendered fat hid beneath a crunchy bark created from hours in the pit, and few on the steam table. Brisket in the mid-afternoon is usually dried out when held in this manner, but the Hickory House beef was juicy and tender. There was plenty of smoke, pepper, and salt to flavor it too.

Maybe the ribs were better back before the pit fire, but it looks like Doyle has found his sweet spot with the brisket. He recognized me just before I left, and asked me for some tips on the ribs. I’m not sure if it was for flattery or if he was really looking to improve, but it’d be worth returning to find out as long as he keeps serving brisket like that.

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