Reviews, News, & Interviews

Provisions Beef Rib 01

Smoked in Texas: Beef Short Rib at Provisions

Barbecue and other smoked foods are making their way into fine dining faster than I can spit out liquid smoke. Often smoke is used as just another layer of seasoning, or maybe the barbecue is portioned and presented with a flourish on the plate. Not so at Provisions, the more casual half of The Pass & Provisions in Houston, where a hulking smoked beef rib is tucked into the dinner menu in between chicken saltimbocca and a…

Pastrami Granary 01

The Best Pastrami in America

Good news, Texans: You don’t need to fly to New York for the best pastrami in the country. The bad news is that it’s only available once a week. The Granary in San Antonio starts slicing it when their doors open at 11:00 in the morning on Fridays, and it’s gone before the lunch hour ends. Hurry. It’s not too late to change your lunch plans. The Granary has been known for their barbecue (it’s a…

Pastrami Katzs 02

Pastramis Across America

Hopefully you’ve already eaten a slice of what I think is the best pastrami in the country at the Granary in San Antonio. Maybe you’re looking for some alternatives that are almost as good, and there are plenty. Over the last few months I’ve been traveling to snuff out great pastrami leads. There are some avant-garde options out there, and pastrami beef ribs are an up-and-coming trend, but here are some of my favorite sliced…

BBQ News: 01/22 – 01/28

– The line at Franklin Barbecue gets some NYT coverage: It’s 10:06 a.m. in Texas. Hundreds may be in line for this BBQ. Even Kanye had to wait. — The New York Times (@nytimes) January 27, 2016   – The Austin American Statesman has some fun at the expense of the NYT, who they say is a bit late on the story of the Franklin Barbecue line.  – The first issue of a…

Pastrami Hometown BBQ 02


In the U.S. we associate pastrami with beef. Whether it’s the more traditional beef navel (a.k.a. beef plate or beef belly), brisket, or even beef short ribs (as discussed yesterday), the word pastrami evokes beefiness. That wasn’t always the case. If you reach back deep into the history of pastrami—and even further back to Turkish and Romanian basturma—it was all about the fowl. In his book about pastrami and the delicatessen, Save the Deli, David Sax…

Cattleack Pastrami 02

Pastrami Beef Ribs

When I first saw a pastrami beef rib on the menu at The Granary in San Antonio, my heart nearly skipped a beat (no blood pressure jokes, please). It was late 2012, and I’d never seen such a thing. Six months later, after I was named the Barbecue Editor, it was one of the first things I ate as part of my new job duties. The verdict? I wanted to love it, but it was…

Goodfriend Mushroom Pastrami 02

Smoked in Texas: Mushroom Pastrami

Oliver Sitrin is no stranger to pastrami experimentation. During his time as chef at Blind Butcher on Greenville in Dallas, he’s taken his thin-sliced beef pastrami and piled it high on rye (a traditional presentation, to be sure), as well as tucked it into an egg roll. He’s made tender duck pastrami, paired it with duck bacon, and served it on a pretzel roll. And now, at the new Goodfriend Package Store on the other side of town, Sitrin…

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More →
The Legend of Southside Market
The Unofficial History of Texas's Oldest Barbecue Joint
The Science of the Smoke Ring
And why it has no bearing on the quality of brisket.
Spareribs for Texas
Spare the Rib and Spoil the Profit
In the Land of Links
The SETX Beef Link Trail
The Many Briskets of Texas
An examination of the various cooking categories
The Best Turkey in Texas
Smoked birds for which we can give thanks.
The Boucherie
A Hog Killing in Louisiana
Grease Balls of Southeast Texas
The Not-So-Famous Beef Links of Patillo's Bar-B-Que
John Lewis Jr.’s BBQ Roots
NM -> TX -> SC
Where Has All the Hill Country Barbecue Gone?
Cooking with coals has stopped being cool


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