Reviews, News, & Interviews

Stuffed Chicken Legs at Baker Boys BBQ

In Luling, Wayne Baker grew up on the basics of barbecue. Brisket, ribs, and beef sausage came wrapped up in butcher paper at City Market, the favored barbecue joint of his youth. “I didn’t really know a barbecue plate existed,” he told me at his barbecue joint, Baker Boys BBQ in Gonzales. The Baker boys are a little less orthodox than City Market, but then Wayne and his father Phil, who opened the place together in 2015,…

BBQ News: 03/10 – 03/23

– Gotta try those juicy links in Port Arthur: I can’t get enough of the wonderful, wacky world of Port Arthur barbecue. #setxbbq — J.C. Reid (@jcreidtx) March 11, 2017   – The Fort Worth Food & Wine Festival will host Black’s BBQ and Kreuz Market from Lockhart later this month. – Heim BBQ in Fort Worth is still planning a second location, but the plans have changed on the address. – Cross Timbers Gazette…

Avoiding Dirty Smoke

Several years ago on a backroad near Galveston, I happened upon a roadside barbecue stand. Of course I stopped and ordered a combo plate. As I opened the styrofoam container, I was hit with the smell of a smoldering fireplace. The brisket and ribs were jet black. It was the smokiest barbecue I’d ever eaten, and at first I couldn’t figure out if that was a good thing. The numbing sensation on my lips and tongue that followed certainly…

Barbecue: A Film

A version of this article was first published in SXSWorld Magazine. The film debuted last week at SXSW. The whole of America is in the midst of full-on barbecue worship. Of late that fascination has spread across the globe, and the new stuff looks a whole lot like Texas barbecue. All those brisket photos make it seem as if Paris or Tel Aviv or Singapore just got a new culinary toy, but don’t let it fool…

When Barbecue was Against the Law

A Denison newspaper described Al Hall as “a magnificent specimen of physical manhood.” When a local alderman pistol-whipped him during an argument at Hall’s barbecue joint in 1891, Hall retaliated with two swift punches to the face, sending the alderman home in a carriage. “Blood flowed quite freely,” noted The Sunday Gazetteer*. But that’s not what got Al Hall arrested. He found himself on the wrong side of the law a month earlier for “violating the…

BBQ News: 02/24 – 03/09

– Brisket and pickle pizza alert: Brisket pizza dreams — Eater Austin (@EaterAustin) March 7, 2017   – The BBQ Recon team headed out to the Brotherton/LeRoy pop-up in Pflugerville and filed a report. – Stiles Switch in Austin is hosting 39 bands in 4 days during SX Stiles Switch starting March 15th. – Former La Barbecue pitmaster Jack Zizzo will focus on unique cuts for his barbecue pop-up Birdhouse BBQ. – The evolution…

Mapping Texas Barbecue History

When it comes to Texas barbecue’s roots, Central Texas meat markets get all the glory. The German and Czech immigrants who built the fires at Kreuz Market in Lockhart, Southside Market in Elgin, and Prause Meat Market in La Grange were indeed barbecue pioneers, but their stories are often elevated because those joints are lucky enough to still be in business. Their current existence reinforces the bias of a simple barbecue genesis story, but the birth of commercial Texas…

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