From the view on either side of the highway, Notrees—the town between Kermit and Odessa—seems to have been born of the simplest observation. Not much out here grows any higher than cotton. Heading further north, they don’t even have the luxury of scrubby mesquite. So if you’re going to cook barbecue in West Texas, the wood fuel needs to be trucked in. Still, just about every barbecue joint in these parts sticks to all wood cooking….